In the Life of Marines at Forward Operating Base Edinburgh
(June 24, 2010) |
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Sgt. Christopher Schaefer, a heavy equipment
operator with Marine Wing Support Squadron 274,
takes a break from searching gravel trucks here,
June 17, to joke with the interpreter working
with the unit. Schaefer controlled the entry
control point, directing four Marines and making
sure the right amount of trucks arrived at the
base. Schaefer and his Marines searched more
than 100 vehicles throughout the day. |
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FORWARD OPERATING BASE EDINBURGH, Afghanistan (June 21,
2010) - Life here is austere and Spartan at best. Howling
winds coat everything with a talcum-like dust, there are few
escapes from the searing heat, electricity is scarce, hot
meals are a rarity yet the morale is probably the highest I
have seen in southern Afghanistan. Albeit a rough place to live and nestled in one of the most
dangerous neighborhoods in the country – Edinburgh is a
haven for the warriors of Marine Wing Support Squadron 274.
Salaam Bazaar, Musa Qal'eh, and Now Zad ring the small
forward operating base and Taliban strongholds are visible
on the imposing mountains looming just a few miles from the
base.
The support squadron, from Cherry Point, N.C., assumed
responsibility for the FOB from the U.K. a few months ago
and has |
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since transformed the small compound into a
functional and somewhat comfortable living
space. The squadron introduced electricity
provided by gas-fueled generators, set up
laundry services, established a chow hall where
Marines can eat two hot meals a day, built
showers and began purifying water. |
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The squadron also expanded the borders of the small FOB,
pushing the berm out hundreds of meters to accommodate an
influx of Marines and to clear the way for its main project
– an assault landing strip capable of hosting medical
evacuation helicopters, assault support helicopters and
attack helicopters. In addition to the assault strip,
MWSS-274 has installed forward area refueling points capable
of hot and cold refuels for all types of helicopters,
including those used by other coalition forces.
Yet, even with these “amenities” and more than 200
inhabitants the base is quiet during the day, the silence
occasionally split by an exploding improvised exploding
device or the artillery battery here executing a fire
mission. At night the place is almost serene. The view of
the stars is entrancing and most nights you can find dozens
of Marines sitting or laying outside star gazing, using one
of the few satellite phones to make over-due calls to their
families. The lack of light and the base's seclusion provide
a crisp, clear picture of the constellations.
The Marines and sailors have to use satellite phones because
the other lines of communication on the FOB are somewhat
unreliable. Although the morale center is receiving an
upgrade that will allow Marines internet access, the only
lines home now are two DSN phones in small, cage-like
structures. But most of the Marines don't care-they talk to
their families when they can and spend the rest of their
time with their peers. The added element of seclusion
bolsters the already strong camaraderie.
Mail for these warriors comes once a month if they are
lucky. Convoys roll in with hundreds of packages that
working parties separate into about a dozen different bins.
Marines dig eagerly through the piles and often stagger off
with their arms full of long-awaited packages. Sometimes
they leave disappointed and empty-handed, but care packages
here are often opened and left out so every Marine can take
what they need. There is no hoarding or concept of excess
here; the Marines share openly and willingly.
Every Marine on the FOB is expected to man guard posts or
run entry control points in addition to their daily duties,
which places many of the aviation Marines in unfamiliar
roles. They trade their wrenches, cranials and heavy
equipment for flares, night vision goggles and crew-served
weapons to stand four-hour shifts at one of the crude
security posts ringing the FOB. Although the base is not
regularly attacked, there are constant signs that the
Taliban is watching Edinburgh. Explosive ordnance
technicians routinely dispose of IEDs placed within a few
hundred yards of the FOB's perimeter.
The cooks aboard Edinburgh serve hot breakfast and dinner –
lunch is always an MRE – dishing out about 400 meals every
day. Although the food is heat-and-serve, it provides a
great relief from the constant flow of MREs that were the
main source of sustenance until about a month ago. The menus
do not vary widely, but most of the Marines are thankful for
hot food and a chance to relax in the air-conditioned dining
tent, lit by plug-in lights hanging from the tent braces.
Supplies are scarce aboard the base. What Marines don't get
from home in care packages they can purchase from a
traveling post exchange that visits the FOB about every six
weeks. It's like a holiday when the trucks arrive, laden
with supplies. A line of dozens of Marines stretches away
from the truck as shoppers scavenge the aisles for hygiene
gear, energy drinks and tobacco. It usually takes several
hours to get through the line.
Edinburgh is on the opposite end of the spectrum than
sprawling combat metropolises like Kandahar Air Field. The
life service members live at larger installations is vastly
different than that aboard this barebones FOB. But the
Marines here explained that comfort is relative; they feel
they live a lavish life compared to their brothers sleeping
in fighting holes outside the wire. These Marines love their
little oasis, and most don't want to leave. Sacrificing
running water, electricity, real food, sewage systems and
other amenities is worth it to them if they can bring
support a little closer to the fight. |
Article and photo by USMC Cpl. Ryan Rholes
3rd Marine Aircraft Wing (Fwd) Public Affairs
Copyright 2010 | |
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